Friday, October 24, 2014

Traveled Waters to Fiji

Wow, I don’t really even know where to begin! I know last time I wrote, our journey was just beginning in Samoa. Although that was over 3 weeks ago, it feels like it was just yesterday, yet at the same time so much has happened. 

It’s a little surreal at the moment, as I race to write this and get over to the mall to connect to internet, to think that our “island exploration” is basically over. New Zealand will be the next adventure, but it won’t have the same academic focus as these other islands have, and we won’t be staying on the ship. In addition, tomorrow marks our first day of our ~2 week sail to New Zealand. Some people are extremely excited to finally get an extended period of time at sea, while others are dreading the backlash of their stomachs. I’m definitely excited, but I know it will be a lot of work. So, I’ll let you know how it goes when we get there!

As for everything else… Let me start with each island. After Samoa, we sailed to Wallis, which was such an interesting place. First of all, it was an amazing ride into Wallis because it is surrounded by a reef that creates a lagoon in-between that and the island. Thus, it is BEAUTIFUL, and almost resembles the caribbean, I imagine. It was crystal clear blue water and little islands that looked like movie sets. It was exciting to get docked, because that passage had been something our Captain had put a lot of thought and energy into since earlier this year. There was just a small passage in the reef to get through, so it was tricky, but we did it (well I mostly got to hand that to our crew, but we did a good job looking at the sites!). Once we got onto land in Wallis, we were a little lost as to where to go or what to do… because there was nothing. Some houses, some completely run down buildings, and a church but that was about it. Funny thing was, there were lots of cars driving around, and pretty nice ones in fact. They all looked like they were headed somewhere for a purpose— so we figured we must just not have gotten to the “town” yet. We eventually came across a small library and tried to ask where town was but remember we were in a French territory… so the language barrier was a little tough. Turns out we were actually “in town”, and there wasn't really a place in Wallis where a lot of stores are. Everything instead is pretty spread out, and everything is poorly marked. Our time in Wallis ended up being pretty great though, we spent a lot of time with people in charge of cultural affairs. Their leader, Bernadette, spoke perfect english and was so helpful in answering a lot of our questions. Over the course of 2 days, we were chauffeured around by this group to see the culture and sites of Wallis. Some of the highlights included another kava ceremony (first one was in Samoa), a trip to look at the large crater lake in the middle of the island, and a boat ride out to a motu (small island a little offshore). The motu was such a treat, and I can’t believe we fit 30+ people into this little boat to get there:


Futuna was our next stop. it’s the other island of the French territory Wallis and Futuna— imagine that ;) Like expected, it was even smaller than Wallis. There was literally 3 tiny supermarkets, a bank, a post office and one gift store that we saw. Not really any government buildings like we had seen in Wallis or larger buildings. Also, in addition to each store hardly having a sign, none of them had windows, and they all closed for a few hours in the middle of the day for lunch. The “fun” part was that it also started pouring about 5 minutes after we stepped off the boat. So that made our time in Futuna pretty exciting. Walking to the post office for 10 minutes of free wifi, while wearing our bright yellow foul weather gear will definitely be a defining memory for me. We were lucky enough to be in Futuna for the week of Communion and were invited to some of the local communities’ ceremonies. I don’t think I can really put into words how these were, but I explained it a little in my blog post for our trip… which for whatever reason still hasn't been posted (apparently got a little lost in translation, but should be posted sometime). It was a lot of feeling very out of place, a lot of Kava (if you don’t know what this is, it’s a huge part of Polynesian culture but to me it tasted like dirt flavored tea with a hint of Novocain to make your mouth numb), group dancing, and awkward Middle school-esq slow dancing. Nevertheless, it was awesome to be a part of and something I’ll never forget! We also got a small tour of Futuna after we met with one of the Kings on our second day there. My blog post for our class blog goes into a little detail about this, but since this is my personal blog I would love to say a little bit more. It was an extremelyyyy uncomfortable meeting with the King, because he and his “advisors” were clearly upset that we hadn’t talked to them first about testing waters around Futuna or conducting research on their island. And mind you— this is in French and their native language so we just had to sit through an hour of feeling like "what the hell is going on”. In the end, it all ended up being fine and they invited us to the bigger Communion ceremony that night. The day we left Futuna, the seas were pretty rough and that continued until we got to Fiji...

I know you are probably all are wondering how Fiji has been, because of it’s beauty we see in pictures (mostly from Fiji water bottles), but I actually probably could sum up this port stop pretty quickly. We’ve been docked in Suva for the past week, and it’s the major city of Fiji. It was insane to go from Futuna to a bustling city with malls and big lights and lots of cars, but it’s been awesome in it’s own right. Besides the adventure to a swimming hole at Colo-I-Suva Forest Park some of us went to the other day, most of our time has been spent in the city. I think a lot of people would have preferred being in a “prettier” part of Fiji, but the more I’ve thought about it, the more I see this as a pretty unique experience. I don’t feel like I would have ever seen this side of Fiji, and I’m glad all our time wasn’t spent in a resort— although maybe a day of that would have been nice! By walking through the streets and spending hours in the malls, we’ve seen the awesome diversity Fiji has. Turns out Fiji is largely Indian now, but still has a large Fijian population and there are also some Asian and Europeans. We were lucky enough to be here for the Indian holiday of Diwali, and that was fun to see fireworks around the city and Fijians in traditional Indian Saris. I don’t think you’ll meet this variety of people anywhere else in the world, but I kind of like it— and I can’t complain about the food!


So as far as life on the ship, I think I'll leave more explanation about that until after we’ve spent these next two weeks a sea. However, it’s been a lot of eat, sleep, do your watch, and clean the ship— with a little fun in between… and also the glorious sites of the ocean and sky :)

Talk to you in New Zealand!


~LTK

Wednesday, October 1, 2014

First few days on the Seamans!

Well I don't know when I'll actually be getting to post this but I'm going to write anyway! Today is the 30th of September, and we are aboard the Robert C. Seamans in Samoa! Let me start from the beginning...

 So on Friday, we all arrived safely in Pago Pago, American Samoan with our luggage! It was honestly the most nerve-racking trip because there were so many things that could go wrong that could mess up our entire trip. However, end of the story is that we made it. From the airport we took this funky wooden bus with cool lights and music to the ship. On the way there we rode along the coastline and started getting a glimpse of the place we were in. Once we got to the harbor, we soon saw our ship! Although it was late, we got to meet some of our staff (that was awake) and got our assignments. I'm in a top bunk with 3 others in a "room" like space. More like a stuffy corner. 


 Ok and note this post has taken me like a week to complete so right now it's October 2nd and I'll try and catch you up on everything. 

The first couple days in American Samoa were filled with orientation things and it was a lot of information, but necessary. Still trying to learn everything now! We have like a dozen crew members including the captain, scientists, deckhands, engineers and our steward-- all with lots of info.  

The second day in Pago Pago we got to check out the Hokulea which was docked next to us and then we went to the NOAA Natiional marine reserve American Samoa headquarters (I think that's what the name basically was). It was the same thing as one we have in Santa Cruz for the Monterey Bay sanctuary, but obviously this was for American Samoa. The people there were super nice and it was clear a lot of there work was just getting the community interested in their environment and oceans. That afternoon we went to a local market/festival type thing where the first thing I saw was three teenage boys dancing on the stage. They were a hip hop group and I talked to them a little after, found out they mainly learned from videos on the Internet. It was a bit awkward but glad I did it. Cool to see dance is so universal ❤️

On Sunday we had more orientation and also safety drills including fire, man overboard and abandon ship stuff. The biggest take away was that the immersion (gumby) suit is one of the worst things to get into in this heat. 

Speaking of this heat, it was intense until the past day. Going to sleep drenched in sweat. Basically sleeping in nothing and under no sheets or blankets. Getting out of the shower, you were just instantly sweaty. Ugh it's been gross. We all are gross, but a week in-- it's kind of just a part of life.

So Sunday afternoon we took off and headed for Samoa. It was awesome to see the beautiful American Samoa from sea. It was all great and my stomach was fine :) later that night we had our watches and I'm in A watch and for that night we had the 11-3am shift. One other person and myself were in the lab for our watch preparing chlorophyll A samples and taking hourly readings of information like depth and water temperature that the ship automatically picks up. The samples were from science stops we made while leaving Pago Pago harbor earlier that day. Anyway by this point I had kind of been thinking about how everyone was getting sick and how everyone took medication but I had been fine..... Until I was stuck in a lab completely sealed off from the world and my stomach was questionable. Soooo I went out on deck and got meds and was fine-- just in time (; 

The next morning we got to Samoa, but we lost a day and it was now Tuesday. Funny thing, one of our crew member's birthday was Monday.... So she missed it! we ended up having to wait a while for customs but eventually got to go check out the town, including this amazing new church.

The town of Apia is where we are, and it's interesting... Definitely the biggest city around but kinda like walking around a flea market. 

Yesterday we got free time to go around town and collect research for our projects . Mine are on waste management and my other is on surf tourism. So I went with one of our visiting faculty from New Zealand (but she's Samoan) and we went in an adventure trying to find the landfill. Definitely wouldn't have got there without here but we couldn't go in... Which I figured might happen. But we got to go to this really cool gallery near there that she wanted to go to, and it was great. 

Today we as a class went to SPREP which is the secretariat of the pacific regional environmental program. And it's an amazing organization that had a lot of good information for waste management. Afterwards some of us students embarked on a journey to this watering hole I'd seen in so many pictures of, but it was across the island. Long story short, it was crazy getting there and back but it was absolutely gorgeous. And here is a semi decent iPhone photo of it: 

Anyway I need to get back to the ship, sorry this was rushed and probably terribly misspelt. We leave for Wallis in Saturday! 

~LTK